A vacation to Scotland is sure to be filled with splendid cathedrals and “kirks” charming cobblestone streets, medieval alleyways, and the outstanding cultural and entertainment scene of Edinburgh.
Few realize that the game of golf has been distracting Scotsmen for more than 600 years. The earliest known reference to it comes from the 1400s, when the Scottish Parliament had to ban the playing of “gawf,” thought to be the old Gaelic spelling, because it was keeping able-bodied citizens away from their military training. Nobody knows who invented the addictive game, but it is agreed that the world’s first permanent golf course was created on an ocean-side stretch of land in St Andrews – a magnificent medieval town that also boasts the country’s oldest university (famously, the Crown Prince William is amongst its students).
Today, St. Andrews is still a paradise for golfers, who flock here from around the world to play the Old Course bathed in golden northern light and visit the majestic clubhouse of the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews. Almost every aspect of golf was devised on this verdant piece of real estate, right down to the number of holes in a tournament. The Old Course originally had 11 holes determined by the rugged topography of the land, and would be played in both directions, for a total of 22 holes in a round. But as the game became more popular in the 1700s, some of the holes were deemed too short and were combined, eventually leaving 18 holes, now the standard.
In 1897, the Society codified the game’s rules, and since 1952 has shared their administration with the United States Golf Association. Luckily for travelers who do not share the international obsession with golf, St. Andrews has a great deal more to offer – the haunting ruins of the St. Andrews castle, which towers over the wild Scottish shoreline, is one of the most evocative historical sites in Britain.
While vacationing in Scotland you may enjoy a sheepdog display, visit a whiskey distillery or tour the mountain resort of Pitlochry. When in Scotland, make sure to travel to Perth and visit Scone Palace where you can sip on coffee and snack on shortbread as you hear about the crowning of Scottish kings.
Continuing our post from Monday, here are a few more Edinburgh must-see sights to make your vacation to Scotland more memorable.
New Town
Flower-filled gardens line one side of Princes Street, colorful shops and galleries the other. And on George Street you’ll find all the smart and exclusive fashion as well as upmarket pubs, clubs, and bars.
The Balmoral Spa
After a day of shopping on famous Princes Street, visit this 5-star hotel for a little pampering. A Turkish steam sauna or a Hot Herbal Body Treatment in its world-renowned spa should do the trick.
Royal Oak Pub
You’ll find plenty of pubs in Edinburgh, but for the sounds of Scottish folk music while you savor your ale, this pub on Infirmary Street is the place.
Mary King’s Close
Visit this area of Scotland if you dare! These 18th century tenement cellars and basements are believed to be haunted. The plague of 1645 wiped out all of its inhabitants.
Bruntsfield Links
Yes, you can play golf in Edinburgh! Bruntsfield is the fourth oldest golf club in the world, and has hosted a number of major championships.
When traveling to Edinburgh, the Scottish capital and “Prince of Cities” here are some must-see sights:
The Georgian House
For a glimpse into the lifestyle of Edinburgh’s 18th century upper class, visit the Georgian House in Edinburgh’s “New Town.” Refurbished and opened to the public by Scotland’s National Trust, the Georgian House boasts elegant architecture and antiques.
Gladstone’s Land
On the other end of the spectrum, this 17th century merchant house, though beautifully restored, shows how confined living conditions were on the Royal Mile centuries ago.
Museum of Scotland
Discover everything you ever wanted to know about Scotland, including a few things you never knew existed—like a milk bottle actor Sean Connery carried when he was a milkman.
Museum of Childhood
Described as the noisiest museum in the world, this is the world’s first museum devoted to the wonders of childhood. Delight in the old-fashioned toys, books, and nickelodeons.
Dean Village
Just a few minutes walk from New Town’s Charlotte Square and 100 feet below the rest of the city, you’ll find an 800-year-old milling town on the Water of Leith. Enjoy a riverside walk through the village as well as lots of local color.
With the stark difference between the New and Old Towns, it should come as no surprise to learn that the man who wrote Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, Robert Louis Stevenson, was a native of Edinburgh. The New Town, where Stevenson grew up, was planned out in the 18th century as a gracious, geometric pattern of wide streets and spacious Georgian town houses. But Stevenson was fascinated by the medieval Old Town, which has always been one of Europe’s most mysterious and haunted enclaves – a romantic warren of ancient alleyways that twist and turn past mouldering graveyards and gas-lit pubs, ending in ghostly cul-de-sacs that bear little bronze plaques with quotes from local poets and writers. (Robert Louis Stevenson gets one, of course: “The stars in heaven aren’t so beautiful as the lamps of Edinburgh on a misty night,” he once wrote).
Today, as in Stevenson’s day, the Old Town’s maze of streets is barnacled with history, and memories lurk on every corner from the Middle Ages. Its most atmospheric spot may be Mary King’s Close. When the Black Plague broke out in 1645, this whole lane was bricked up by the authorities with the tenants still inside, dooming them to starvation. Today, standing in its fetid tunnels, you can easily imagine when Edinburgh was the most crowded city in Europe, filled with the frail residential that rose as high as 14 stories and were prime fodder for fire and collapse. Back then, pedestrians would have to dash from door to door, dodging the buckets of refuse tossed from above (tenants would yell gardylou, a corruption of the French gardez l’eau, ‘watch out for the water!’). Robert Louis Stevenson himself suffered from serious health problems due to Edinburgh’s chilly climate, and later in life he was obliged to leave his beloved, schizophrenic city. After many epic journeys, he died far away from his damp, dark homeland, on the tiny tropical island of Samoa in the South Pacific.
Amongst the Scots, Edinburgh has a reputation for being decorous, civilized, buttoned-down, even a little staid – until August rolls around, that is, and culture lovers from around the world converge on its streets for the Edinburgh Festival, and the city becomes the world capital of the arts.
The population of Edinburgh doubles overnight, crowds jam the streets and the elegant heart of the city, the Royal Mile, becomes thick with buskers and round-the-clock comedy shows. Although hundreds of international performers converge on the city for the main body of the Festival, it’s the more adventurous “Fringe Festival” that is beloved by locals. It began in 1948, when a few experimental acts couldn’t make it into the mainstream theater venues. But by the 1960s, the Fringe had become a British fixture, with comic masterminds like Peter Sellers, Dudley Moore and John Cleese making their stage debuts, and Tom Stoppard putting on his first play.
Recent years have seen the discovery of comedians Rowan Atkinson, Eddie Izzard, Steve Coogan and Billie Connolly. The Academy Award-winning actress Emma Thompson got her “big break” at the Fringe, as did actor Hugh Laurie (most famous now for the TV hit House).
Join us as we travel north and extend our UK vacation in Scotland, taking in the breathtaking Highland scenery.
Over the next month we will hunt for the elusive Loch Ness monster near the town of Inverness, play some golf in St. Andrews, and stroll through the famous castle in the capital city of Edinburgh.
Scotland is a magical place where past meets present in extraordinary ways. Your Scottish vacation will leave you with lasting memories.
The English countryside is thick with historical ruins, but some of the most formidable were created by the world’s first superpower, ancient Rome. Conquered by Emperor Claudius in 69 AD, Britain became one of the remotest provinces of the sprawling Roman Empire, and amongst its most troublesome. Decade after decade, Roman legions were dispatched to subdue the Pictish “barbarians” of the northern part of the islands (modern Scotland), but were defeated by its dismal weather, rugged terrain and savage resistance. Worse, defiant Pictish raiders swept down from the highlands to pillage peaceful Roman settlements, causing endless headaches for local governors.
Finally, in 180 AD, the visionary Emperor Hadrian had had enough of the troublesome frontier. He decided to build a 180-mile-long defensive wall through the narrowest neck of the island, with military towers set up every mile; forts would be manned by 1,000 men each to keep the enemy at bay. These sodden, windswept outposts were amongst the least popular postings in the Empire for Roman soldiers, who longed for the warmer climates of the Mediterranean, but thanks to their impregnable stone barrier, they successfully kept the peace in Roman Britain for over 200 years. Only when the Roman Empire itself began to crumble around 400 AD, and the once-disciplined Roman soldiers themselves became vicious bands of marauders, was Hadrian’s Wall abandoned. Even so, the edifice remained more or less for another thousand years, until the Normans in the Middle Ages realized that the beautifully-cut Roman stone would make excellent material for their castles, so the masonry has been largely pillaged. Today, anyone driving from England to Scotland can turn off from the main highways and visit the eerily abandoned remains of Hadrian’s once-splendid Wall – now peaceful and picturesque, wandered by herds of sheep instead of wild-eyed barbarians.
None of England’s rural settings are so closely associated with a single writer as the Lake District is with the poet William Wordsworth, an immensely popular figure who draws crowds of devotees every summer. Wordsworth was born in the region in 1770 and throughout his long life (he died in 1850, at the age of 80) celebrated its spectacular mountains, idyllic forests and shimmering waters. His youthful spirit still feels present in his quaint 18th century abode, Dove Cottage, which sits amidst classic English gardens by the village of Grasmere. Wordsworth moved here in 1799, at the age of 29, with his beloved younger sister Dorothy, and wrote some of the most influential poetry in the English language.
The beauty of the Lake District was a constant inspiration: As a child, he went on long walks through this picturesque countryside to escape his distant father and cruel grandparents, and later in life the habit of vigorous hiking prevailed; his writings in praise of the healing power of nature would become cornerstones of the Romantic movement, and change the way we view the world. Today, the cottage, with its cozy little rooms, blackened fireplaces and perfect views of his rose-filled garden still has a lived-in feel; the adjacent museum contains poignant mementoes of Wordsworth’s life, including the original manuscript of Daffodils, which was written here. (“I wandered lonely as a cloud…”) Literary pilgrims continue to the poet’s grave at St. Oswald’s churchyard nearby, but perhaps the most genuine homage is to take an afternoon stroll in the countryside Wordsworth loved so much: Start at the nearby village of Elterwater and follow the mile-long path along a shady brook to lakes filled with swans and surrounded by daffodils. Return for a pint of ale at the 18th century Britannia Inn, and you start to feel like a Romantic poet yourself.
